The current capability of your input power supply doesn't matter as long as it's enough to run the circuit. Note that the one you've linked does not include a resettable fuse, which I would consider at least an advantage if not a 'must'.Īs another detail, it would be nice if the polarity of output matched the color of markings on your breadboard (red = +, blue = GND), but most seem to be reversed. See my answer here for the schematic of a similar product sold with the same part number. The 5V from the USB socket is passed along directly when switched on. You can use the power supply module you linked to create a 3.3V bus if you need it. This will avoid excessive dissipation on the board, and help prevent oopsies that can destroy your parts. The USB power connections are connected directly to the +5/0V and nothing else. Make sure the two are compatible, there are a number of combinations. Similar (but not interchangeable) boards with the same part number are available with a mini or micro USB socket to match standard power supplies as used with Raspberry Pi, cell phones etc. A standard adapter (or power bank if you want battery power) and use the USB socket rather than the barrel jack. I suggest you buy a 5V regulated adapter for your ~1A requirements.
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